If you’re interested in skincare (and we’re assuming you are if you’ve landed here), you’ve no doubt heard of the skin barrier. Like slugging and skinimalism, the skin barrier is a hot topic among social media skincare communities. And, unlike many fleeting trends, this is one dermatological obsession guaranteed to stick around.

But what is your skin barrier, exactly? And why is it so important? From impairment to repairment and everything in between, this is your bumper barrier guide. Read on to learn how to protect your precious skin barrier – and why you should even bother in the first place. 

What is the skin barrier? 

Also known as the moisture barrier, the skin barrier is a vital part of happy, healthy skin. If it functions well your skin will be soft, plump, and glowing. If it’s damaged – well, we’ll get into that in a moment. But let’s just say your skin will look and feel less than its best.  

The skin barrier is found in the stratum corneum – the outermost layer of your epidermis (top skin layer). It consists of skin cells held together by fatty, waxy, or oily compounds known as lipids. Think of your skin cells as bricks – and ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids as the mortar that glues everything together. Together, they create a protective barrier to keep irritants out while locking in hydration. 

What are the signs your barrier is impaired? 

Is your skin sensitive and prone to flushing and redness? These are symptoms and signs of a damaged barrier. Ditto dryness, dullness, and dehydration. Plus, rough patches and tight, itchy, or uncomfortable sensations. Like skin that stings even when applying non-active skincare products or sunscreen. 

When the skin barrier is damaged, the skin is less able to retain precious moisture. An increase in trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) leaves the skin looking lacklustre. And it can also worsen skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis. 

At the same time, the skin’s also less able to defend itself from external aggressors – like UV, pollution, and chemicals. More susceptible to inflammation and irritation, the skin may show signs of premature ageing. If you struggle with acne, your breakouts will often become more frequent and severe.

What can damage it?

So, what’s caused your skin barrier to become impaired? A range of internal and external factors could be to blame – starting with your skincare habits.

The bugbear of every dermatologist, over-exfoliation and aggressive use of active ingredients like retinol and acids (glycolic acid, salicylic acid etc) are common culprits. While these ingredients have amazing benefits, it’s important to build up tolerance gradually. And be careful when combining in your skincare regime.

Other factors impacting the skin barrier include UV radiation, pollution exposure and an overly dry or humid climate. Your genes also play a part – and so does your lifestyle. Stress, lack of sleep, smoking? They’re not doing your barrier any favours. You’ll also want to avoid overly hot water. And be aware that steroids and certain medications can weaken your skin’s defences and cause a weak skin barrier.

How to build a barrier-friendly skincare routine 

Whether you’re rebuilding a compromised barrier or simply want to support your skin, a barrier-friendly skincare routine will help.

Step 1: Keep it simple

As dermatopharmacology professor, Dr Christian Surber tells The New York Times, “The 10-step Korean regimen is an ordeal for the skin.” Meaning? The first thing a dermatologist will recommend to repair skin barriers is a basic, pared-back routine. 

Skip (or reduce the use of) your retinoids, hydroxy acids and manual exfoliants for a few weeks. Instead, try a simple routine that focuses on restoring hydration. Think gentle cleanser, a hydrating serum and moisturiser.

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